Troubleshooting

Bambu P2S first layer not sticking? How to fix bed adhesion problems

By Hayden · Last updated: October 16, 2026

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A bad first layer is the root of most failed prints: corners lifting, a model getting dragged around the plate, or a bird's nest of “spaghetti” where your print should be. The good news is that on a Bambu Lab P2S the fix is usually simple. This guide walks through the checks in the order I'd do them, easiest first, based on Bambu Lab's own troubleshooting guides.

Always check the official Bambu Lab Wiki for your printer — menu names and steps can change with firmware updates.

In this guide

Too high or too low? Read your first layer
The five quick fixes (try these first)
Re-run calibration and bed leveling
Slicer tweaks that help
Fine-tuning the first layer height
Still failing? Hardware checks
Prints stuck too well?
Printable checklist
Sources

1. Too high or too low? Read your first layer

Bambu's P2S first-layer guide splits problems into two types. Look closely at the first layer of a failed print:

Nozzle too far from the plate (first layer too high): the lines look round and separate with gaps between them, adhesion is weak, and lines may peel apart when you remove the print. This can lead to warping, parts shifting, or spaghetti.
Nozzle too close (first layer too low): the surface looks rough, wavy or over-squashed, the nozzle may scrape the plate, and the print can be very hard to remove. Too little filament may come out, which can build up at the nozzle.

Bambu also points out that small imperfections in a small part of the first layer usually don't matter, as long as the layer sticks well overall.

2. The five quick fixes (try these first)

Wash the build plate properly. Bambu calls a dirty plate the most common cause of first-layer spaghetti. Their cleaning guide for the Textured PEI Plate: wet it, scrub with dish soap and a sponge or plastic brush, rinse with warm water, and dry it with a paper towel. Use a detergent without oils or moisturisers, never use acetone on it, and hold the plate by its edges afterwards so you don't leave fingerprints.
Select the right plate type in Bambu Studio. It must match the plate on the printer. This matters more than you'd think: Bambu explains that on the Textured PEI Plate the printer lowers the nozzle slightly (0.04 mm) after leveling to compensate for the texture. If you're using the textured plate but sliced for a different plate, the nozzle will be too high, and the bed temperature may be too low as well.
Keep Auto Bed Leveling turned on in the print-sending window. Bambu strongly recommends leaving it on for the best chance of success.
Check under the plate. A blob of filament or debris between the plate and the heatbed stops it sitting flat. Wipe both surfaces.
Dry your filament. Damp filament turns to steam in the nozzle and extrudes unevenly, which hurts adhesion. PETG is especially prone to this. See my beginner filament guide for storage and drying tips.

In Bambu's words, washing the plate “solves most issues related to adhesion,” as long as you're using the right settings and plate type.

3. Re-run calibration and bed leveling

If the quick fixes didn't work, re-run the printer's calibration. Bambu's P2S guide recommends running Auto Bed Leveling and High-temperature Bed Leveling from the printer's calibration menu (Print Calibration).

Bambu says you must re-run leveling if the printer has been moved, stored for a long time, or the heatbed has been removed or replaced.
Clean the nozzle tip before leveling. Bambu warns that leftover filament on the nozzle can throw off the leveling measurement. It also recommends checking that the nozzle wiper is clean, in place and not bent.
Calibration data is stored on the printer and applied automatically, so you don't need to do anything else afterwards.

4. Slicer tweaks that help

Slow the first layer down. Bambu recommends an initial layer speed of 30 mm/s or less (and initial layer infill of 60 mm/s or less) if parts aren't sticking.
Add a brim to small or tall parts. Adhesion is roughly proportional to the contact area. Bambu suggests a brim (they recommend 5–8 mm wide, wider for smaller contact areas) to stop small-footprint parts being knocked off.
Use supports for tall, thin models so the nozzle doesn't knock them over at speed.
Check the bed temperature if you've edited a filament profile. Bambu's textured PEI troubleshooting guide says a slightly higher bed temperature increases adhesion, but warns that too much heat with PLA or PETG can cause clogs and “elephant's foot.” Stay within the ranges in Bambu's filament guide.
Thicker first layer as a last slicer tweak. If problems continue, Bambu suggests trying a 0.5 mm first-layer line width and 0.25 mm first-layer height.
Printing PLA in a warm room? The P2S is enclosed. Bambu recommends opening the door and/or removing the top glass cover when printing PLA with the bed above 45 °C, to stop heat building up and softening the filament before it reaches the nozzle.

5. Fine-tuning the first layer height

If the first layer is still consistently too high or too low across the whole plate, Bambu's P2S guide describes a First Layer Quality Calibration option in the calibration menu where you can adjust the Z offset:

First layer too high (gappy lines) → decrease the offset, e.g. from 0 to −0.01.
First layer too low (squashed, scraping) → increase the offset, e.g. from 0 to 0.01.
Change it in small steps and run a test print each time. Bambu's guide mentions going up to a maximum of 0.05 mm.

Only do this after cleaning, choosing the right plate and re-running leveling. Otherwise you're compensating for a different problem.

6. Still failing? Hardware checks

Same spot fails every time? Bambu says repeated sparse lines in the same area are usually contamination (like an oil stain) on the plate. Clean it thoroughly (Bambu mentions anhydrous alcohol or a dedicated cleaner as options), re-seat the plate and re-run leveling.
Whole first layer too low? Check the nozzle is properly clipped in and doesn't wiggle. Bambu's guide covers re-tightening the hotend if it's loose.
Plate worn out? If one side of a textured plate just won't stick any more, Bambu suggests trying the other side. If that works, the plate is fine to keep using.
Manual bed leveling is the last resort. Bambu has a dedicated P2S & X2D manual bed leveling guide using a special G-code file and a sheet of paper. Only try it if everything above has failed, and follow the official steps exactly.
Still stuck? Open a ticket with Bambu Lab support. They'll usually ask for photos and printer logs.

7. Prints stuck too well?

The opposite problem! Bambu recommends letting the plate cool, ideally to 35 °C or lower, then removing it and gently flexing it so the print pops off. If a print is welded on and the first layer looked very squashed, your first layer is probably too low (see section 5).

Tip: a plastic scraper helps with stubborn prints.

8. Printable checklist

Plate washed with warm water and dish soap, dried, no fingerprints
Correct plate type selected in Bambu Studio
Nothing stuck under the plate
Auto Bed Leveling turned on when sending the print
Filament dry (especially PETG)
Nozzle tip clean; wiper clean and straight
Calibration re-run after moving the printer
First layer slowed down and a brim added for small or tall parts
Z offset fine-tuned in tiny steps (only if still needed)

Got a first-layer problem this didn't fix? Get in touch and I'll try to help. New to the P2S? Start with my first-week guide.

Sources

This guide is based on Bambu Lab's official documentation (checked October 16, 2026). Check these pages for the latest steps for your firmware: